Friday, January 30, 2009

Passions and Muscles I never knew I had

Bariloche is a beautiful place. The city sits in a valley surrounded by snow covered mountains and crystaline sparkling lakes. It is a nature buff's place on heaven, there is so much to do here in the outdoors.

On the first day we arrived, Hubby and I got to do some really neat hiking. We walked in the lovely forest of the Arrayales and along one of the many lovely lakes that border the area. We felt alone in the world surronded by nature and the feeling was so liberating that we didn't even hesitate to go skinny dipping in the lake when the noon sun was high and the heat scorching that the lake's sparkling waters literally called us to it.














The next day we decided to give horse back riding a try. I'd only once before in my life ridden a horse and that was about 10 years ago while visiting a friend's ranch in Chiapas. I remember a charro gave me this poor little old trembling horse to ride for half an hour and I never really got the hang of it, so I was a little nervous this time around. Still, the moment I got up on Betty (named after Betty La Fea, which is pretty unfair if you ask me because she was a lovely dark horse with a pretty peppered colored mane) I knew I was going to be fine. We were a small group of 6 and together we rode across a small valley, along a little river, up a mountain and along its ridge just in time to watch the sun go down behind the lovely mountains and tinkling lakes we had as a background. The entire time Betty and I got along great and I even felt comfortable enough to let her gallop a little, my body naturally adjusting to the bumps of the ride. When we got back to the Encomienda (the ranch from where we set out) for some good old home made asado grilled over an outdoor pit and eaten under the stars, the guide asked me how long I'd been riding. When I told him never, he said I'd done incredibly well for a first time. Hubby says he was probably just being nice, but I think I found my new calling in life. When we are finished trotting around this globe, we're going to settle down in a beat down rancho somewhere and raise horses. That's final.













Of course, the next day when we woke up, we discovered we had muscles in our backs and behinds that we didn't even knew existed. Still, neither of us regretted the pain and instead agreed that the best way to alleviate it was to go rafting! At least that way, the pain in our arms that would surely follow would makes us forget the pain in our lower bodies.

We found a group of Argentinian river buffs that ride down rapids for kicks who were organizing two boats to ride down the Manso river taking on rapids with names like "Intestino", "Extasis" and "Tobogán". We were game. It was incredibly fun and for two hours we rowed and rode the waves of different rapids that we encountered along the way. At one time the boat stood perfectly vertical in the wakes of one of the rapids with us hanging on to it for dear life. Hubby and another guy actually slipped and went under the boat and came out on the other side and when we met up with them a little down river and got them back on the boat, they looked at "Atu" (the guy that was steering the boat) with a goofy grin and yelled "let's do it again!". Of course, we all instantly agreed and Atu had us turn the boat around and take on that rapid all over again - talk about adrenaline spike!









So yeah, if you like outdoor activities (which I really wasn't sure I did but know I know I do!) Bariloche is definitely the place for you. There is so much to do here. We only got to do a small portion of it but there are so many lakes and forests to explore, fishing, hiking, rock-climbing.... to do and in the winter, when the mountains are covered with snow, you can add skiing, snowboard, sleighing etc to the list. Not to mention the incredibly beautiful landskape they've got here.

But, alas, we are leaving today..... taking a semi-cama bus up to Mendoza this evening. Wish us luck on that!!!

The bets are on, how many of you think we'll make it in the 20 hour time frame we've been told it takes???

Saludos,
Fned.

.

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

The 32 hour trip

Nope, it's not the one that took us across the globe all the way to the country of the raising sun.....

..... nor is it the one that took us across the Atlantic ocean and below the Equator......

.... I'm talking about the bus ride that was supposed to get us from Buenos Aires to Bariloche in under 24 hours (we're talking about a 2000+ km trip nonetheless!!) ..... and instead ended up taking 30+ hours!

Highlights of the trip included:

> The driver forgeting to fill up the gas tank and thus running out of fuel and breaking the gas pump in the process.

> The 4 hour stay stranded along a deserted road in the middle of nowhere waiting for a mecanic to bring a new pump (and gas)

> The bus stoping at a gas station to fill up and the driver refueling the bus with all of us still on it and the motor still running (I suspect the driver was afraid if he cut the engine it might not restart again).... all this while enjoying a nice smoke right next to the pumps.

> The extra 7 hours in the bus with no time to stop for food or bathrooms.

> The moment the air filter broke and the air inside the vehicle filled with the sand and dust coming from the outside pampas' landscape.

> The extra hour stranded just outside the Bariloche bus station waiting for a platform to be free for the unplanned 7 hour late bus to park at and finally let its passengers off that damned bus!!!


Translated version in Images:




(Leaving Buenos Aires) Yay!!! Bariloche here we come!! Wow! Look at that beautiful countryside!!! yaaaayyyy!!! :D!!!!



(A few hours later, just before night time) After that lovely gorgeous sunset I'm ready to snooze out a bit and dream of lovely Bariloche when we get there tomorrow....Nighty-night y'all =)



(A few hours later, just before dawn) Hmmmmm?... that's funny, the bus has stopped. Oh well... good night again! :-)



(A few hours later, well past dawn) What tha? Still here!? That doesn't seem right.... :s



(A few hours later...) Crap!



(Another few hours later....) Double Crap!!!



(Another few hours later....) WHEN THE F*CK ARE WE GETTING OUT OF HERE?!?!?




Che Guevara's The Motorcylcle Diaries sounds like a Club Med trip compared to what we've just been through!


Fned.

Tuesday, January 27, 2009

knock, knock....

Who's there?



................






Fned and Hubby





...............





Fned and Hubby who?





..................






Fned and Hubby stuck in the middle of NOWHERE after the bus that was supposed to take us to Bariloche ran out of gas in the wee hours of the morning.



Fned.

Sunday, January 25, 2009

Pequeño update 2

It's been a little over a week that Hubby and I crossed the Atlantic and the Equator and the sun is still scorching hot, the food still incredibly delicious and the sights still amazing.

Did I mention we've been to two other countries in the past couple of days?? Oh yeah, baby!!! My passport is starting to look like a stamp collector's booklet.

First there was Brazil. Last time I posted we were way up north of the country checking out the Iguazu falls. We'd heard there was more to see from the Brazilian side and so we decided to check it out. A quick trip to the Brazilian consulate for the Mexican passport (btw, Lula, what's up with that? we Mexicans are a peaceful people, us no need no visas, in my humble opinion) and three pesero buses later, Hubby and I had crossed the natural border that is the Iguazu river and were changing our pesos for reales.









The trip was so worth it. Not only were the waterfalls truly amazing, but also we got to experiment a Brazilian all-you-can-eat BBQ asado, which from what we could gather from our very poor grasp of the language, consists of an incredibly stocked up salad bar and waiters that bring to your table (sometimes two or three at a time!!) the flaming hot bbq spikes and slice off the meat directly on to your plate in such huge quantities and with such frequency that by round two Hubby and I were stuffed. It was absolutely delicious and I was so impressed by it all that I accidentally (I suck at math) on purpose (service was impeccable) left a 27% tip!!!

By the end of the week we were back in Buenos Aires visiting some awesome museums and strolling in the beautiful leafy neighborhoods that is the Palermo area. And lets not forget the highlight of Saturday night. Nope, not a tango show.... I'm talking about watching El Super Clasico of course!! A futbol match between the Boca Juniors and the River Plate teams is to the people in this country what the Chivas taking on el America is to Mexicans, the PSG Saint-Germain going up against the Olympique de Marseille is for the french and Michael Jordan's Bulls playing against Kobe Bryant's LA Lakers (if such a thing ever happened)....... basically..... take that sport passion madness and raise it up a 200% notch and you can guess how it felt to be watching this game in a bar called "Locos x el Futbol" filled with red & white and gold & navy-blue claded super fans. Awesome doesn't even begin to describe it.





Boca won, by the way.




This morning was time for some more passport stamping. Hubby and I hoped on the ferry across the Rio de la Plata to visit the lovely little town that is Colonia del Sacramento on the Uruguayan coast. Colonia once belonged to the Portuguese colonies, then at some point was turned over to the Spaniards for a while before they became independent and a part of Uruguay. And so, as you walk along the cobbled streets lined with rows and rows of high leafy trees providing blessed shadow and coolness to the small colonial-style houses below, you really get the feeling that time stopped there. It is truly beautiful and worth the three hour ferry trip each way.










Tomorrow we add a new means of transportation to this trip: the autobus semi-camas. Can't wait to see how that goes.

Saludos a todos,
Fned.

Wednesday, January 21, 2009

Pequeño update

Ok, first off, let me just say I love, Love, LOVE having the ñ keyword again. Somehow, I've missed the little bugger and seeing it on all the keyboards here makes me smile. Cuz I'm a sentimental nerd like that. :)

We got to Argentina this past weekend and it has been an amazing trip so far (barr a little mishap with Hubby's credit card, AGAIN!!! grrr!): Anyway, Saturday, Sunday, Monday and part of Tuesday were spent stolling along the streets of good ol' Buenos Aires. We've walked so much in the past couple of days that I feel I have a map of the city burned in my mind now. We saw the impressive Plaza de Mayo and Casa Rosada, visited the Evita museum, walked around the pretty San Telmo barrio, visited the Boca Juniors stadium (home team of a so called Diego Maradona), catched some street tango improv in Caminito, checked out the spiffy Recoleta, Retiro and Palermo neighbourhoods, walked along the 12 lane 9 de Julio avenue and ate like there was no tomorrow (yes, I have been cheating here, but only because it is absolutely impossible to resist those incredible parrillas!!! How can people eat meat anywhere ELSE in the world when Argentina is the only place worth doing it???)



One of Buenos Aires' many incredible apartment-building skyscrapers


La Casa Rosada, home to President Christina Kirchner


La "Bonbonera", home stadium to the mythical team of Boca Juniors


One of many gorgeous little terraces out in the streets of San Telmo

Tango anyone?


Oh, ok, you meant the real thing....


Nope, not at the Louvre, this is a Shopping Mall!!!


The colorful (and I mean it literally) barrio of Caminto!


I've been having a very funny thing happen to me while being here. I keep seeing things that remind me so much of Mexico, things that are so reminiscent of my culture, my country, my home. Things that I don't see in France or feelings that I don't get in Paris. Sometimes I'll be feeling so confident, like a fish in the water, like I understand things here, like I can grasp how such and such is done ..... and then I'll bump into a totally european building or hear a "oshe, che! tenés un cigarrillo?" and I'm suddenly hit with the realization that this is a whole other country.

I'm not trying to denigrate Argentina, nor their culture by saying it's the same thing as Mexico. This country really is so beautiful and intriguing and amazing on its own. You can really feel the European influence here, Italian, Spanish and French mainly and for nothing in the world would you be able to confuse a Mexican with an Argentinian.

But there's just something about being back on this side of the world that somehow makes me feel at home.


Anyway, moving on.

Got to Puerto de Iguazú yesterday afternoon. This is a tiny little town perched high up on the border with Brazil and Paraguay. The impressive Iguazú waterfalls are a few kilometers down the road from Puerto Iguazú and Hubby and I were dying to go see them.

We were a little worried about the "it's a little going to Disneyland" comments we kept reading in the guides about Iguazú and I have to admit that Puerto Iguazú really is crawling with tourists. But it's nothing like Disneyland. At all.

First of all, the town is pretty all on its own. The soil in this part of the country is red, brick red. So everything is red. The roads, the houses, the sidewalks. Add to that the beautiful contrast of the green luxurious vegetation that grows here and you've got yourself a very pretty town. You don't even notice the tourists.

Hubby, strutting his stuff in Puerto Iguazu


And then there's the falls.

There is no words to describe how amazing they are. We were under the (wrong) impression that they are the biggest in the world (they aren't, the biggest apparently are in Guyane, guess what frenchman turned blue with pride upon learning this, lol) but you would never guess this when you're standing there looking at them.

I'll be sure to post pictures when I get back home, but in the meantime I can tell you it took us 7 hours to see the entire set of falls. We got soaked, twice. We saw them from above, from the side, from underneath, from below and even from a little boat that takes you right under them!!!

It was simply magnificent!!!





Anyway, we're back at the hostel right now and getting ready to go out and have dinner (parrilla anyone??). Will post again soon!!

Saludos amigos!!
Fned.

Friday, January 16, 2009

Tuesday, January 13, 2009

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